Prep
steps
for
metal
miniatures
(clean,
prime,
and
ready
to
paint)
-
Inspect
&
remove
flash
-
Check
for
mold
lines,
flash,
and
casting
blocks.
-
Use
a
hobby
knife,
small
files,
and
fine
needle
files
to
remove
them
carefully.
-
Wash
the
miniature
-
Clean
all
parts
in
warm
water
with
a
few
drops
of
dish
soap;
brush
gently
with
a
soft
toothbrush
to
remove
oils
and
release
mold-release
agents.
-
Rinse
thoroughly
and
pat
dry
with
paper
towels.
Let
air
dry
completely.
-
Attach
to
a
handle
or
holder
-
Some painters like to mount
the
miniature
on
a
temporary
handle
(cork,
bottle
cap,
or
painting
handle)
with
poster
tack
or
blu-tack,
or
superglue
a
pin
to
the
base
so
you
can
hold
it
without
touching
painted
areas.
-
Prime
-
Choose
an
appropriate
primer:
thin-layer
acrylic
spray
primer
(black/white/gray)
or
brush-on
metal
primer.
-
Apply
thin,
even
coats
from
~20–30
cm
(8–12
in),
holding
the
can
moving
to
avoid
pooling.
Let
cure
per
label
(typically
15–60
minutes).
-
Inspect
for
missed
spots;
spot-prime
as
needed.
For
better
adhesion
on
bare
metal,
use
a
primer
formulated
for
metal
or
apply
a
thin
brush-on
coat
of
acrylic
medium
before
primer.
-
Optional:
undercoat
and
basing
-
If
using
specific
color
undercoats
(e.g.,
zenithal
prime
or
colored
base
coats),
apply
them
now.
-
Glue
the
miniature
to
its
final
base
or
prepare
the
base
separately
to
avoid
handling
the
mini
while
painting.
Quick
tips
-
Work
in
a
well-ventilated
area
and
use
gloves/mask.
-
Use
magnification
and
good
lighting
for
detailed
work.
Preparing Resin Items For Painting
Clean all resin with soap and water to take off the mold release. Use an old soft tooth brush or soft brush clean the surface. Glue - any decent super glue or plastic glue should work well. Don't use the dollar store version. I look at it this way - why buy the cheap version when you bought such a nice model to start with. You could also use any type of epoxy for things like the treads that have glue points you won't see. Epoxy tends to give a little rather than have a stiff bond.
For buildings we recommend using epoxy and mounting them on a base of masonite or plywood. Leave the roofs unglued to the building and then the interiors can be used during your miniature wargaming.
If a building piece is warped due to manufacturing, boil some water in a pot or transfer boiling water to a tray for larger pieces. Place the entire piece in the boiling water for less than a minute. Remove it and place it on a counter with a weight (like a book) on top of it. Once it cools and re-hardens the warp will be gone.
Priming with Gesso
Here is a link to a great article with pictures and details on how to use Gesso as your primer. My interest in this was sparked by very cold weather here and wanting to get some miniatures started.
Castings with Some Discoloration
The metal was probably a little too hot when they were poured resulting in some of the alloy separating out near the surface (sometimes the colors are brown/gold or bluish/purplish.) A good cleaning & priming before painting should help hide it.
